Day 11 - Trek to Nabhidang - 08 July 2008
Today plan was to trek to Nabhidang. It was about 9 km. easy trek. There was no hurry in the morning to start so we started after breakfast after 7 a.m. only.Nabhidang is the place where naval (In Hindi नाभि i.e. Nabhi) of Goddess Sati fell. One can see a mountain in the shape of Naval there and that is why it is called Nabhi-dang.
Nabhidang is also the place where one can see "Aum parvat". Aum Parvat is a mountain where one can see snow present year round in the shape of Aum i.e. ॐ.
We reached Nabhidang at about 10 a.m. Rest of the day we were to take rest as next day we had to leave very early in the morning (about 3:30 a.m.) to be able to reach China border Lipulekh (लिपुलेख) in time to be able to cross over to Tibet/China. A returning batch will be coming there after completing Kailash Mansarovar Yatra. We did a cross over so timing to be maintained was very important.
There was very little vegetation between between Kalapani and Nabhidang. Absolutely no trees were there. Because of lack of vegetation and trees, oxygen quantity availability is less apart from lack of oxygen due to lesse atmospheric pressure. Vegetation is less as it does not rain much here. We walk with clouds around us once in a while.
There was a temple of Shiva and Parvati here. There is a broken helicopter which fell in 1993. It is said that by god's grace, noone died in that helicopter crash.
We could not see Aum parvat today. Till 2 p.m. also it was covered with clouds. In night also it was covered by clouds (Sometime in night if clouds are clear, Aum Parvat is quite visible). At that place stars and Sky were unimaginably clear.
Since this is kind of last stop, we had to make payments to Porter and pony riders. Rates got decided as Rs 3009+tips for porter and Rs 3339+tips for pony. Rates are fixed as per Km by government. Total distance we covered by foot was about 69 kms. All the way, porters have to manage on their own for their lodging and food. They ended up spending rs 25-30 per meal and Rs 30-50 for night lodging at local hotels everywhere we had a night halt. Also they have to go back on their own (Sometimes they have a fixed fare with returning batch or else they will be returning empty handed till Dharchula on their own). In a year a particular porter or Pony rider would not get more than two chances typically.
Evening we were communicated that we had to leave next morning at 3:30 a.m. to reach Tibet/China border as 8:30 a.m. India time was fixed as cross over time. It was about 9 k.m. trek but steep and windy and very cold. We were arranged to have tea at 2:30 a.m., bournvita and milk/corn flakes at 3:30 a.m. on the way and packed lunch (Poori + sabzi) for the day meal.
There was a river there called Lipu river. There were hills on other side of river which were originally part of Nepal. India government traded them with Nepal for some land in Mahendranagar due to strategic importance for security against China. Today while trekking practiced the "SoHam" technique. Took the breath in from mouth while making the sound "So" and exhaled by Nose while making sound "Ham". All this with synchronized steps. i.e. while inhaling one step and while exhaling one step. This was very useful for next morning trek which was one of the highest in this trip.(Not the highest as there was one more in Tibet during Kailash parikrma).
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