Yatra : Day 12 - Seventh Day Trek - Trek to Lipulekh

Day 12 - Trek to LipuLekh(Tibet/China border), further to Taklakot(in Tibet)- 09 July 2008
Left Nabhidang quite early at 3:30 a.m. as per the plan. Everyone got up by 2 a.m. and got ready by 3:15 a.m. Got cornflakes and milk and bournvita as breakfast. Two Kachori filled with aloo was given as packed lunch. Walked indark with help of torches for about 2 hours. We ascended about 2500 ft in the span of covering 9 km. As we proceeded oxygen level and vegetation level dropped. There was no vegetation by the time we reached Lipulekh pass. One side of it is India and other side Tibet/China. It was so windy and cold there that could not stand there at one place even for 5 minutes. Hands and Leg fingers started getting numb and frozen. (after I was having four layers of clothing, gloves, double socks, shoes, a Canadian jacket (which could withstand -20'C). Nose was watery. To stand against the wind, we stood in a line or 4-5 people in a group so as to protect from each other. We had to cross over to other side and pass through Chinese immigration in that cold. Taking out passport and holding it itself was a big challenge as hand had become numb. There was frozen ice (not even snow) all around us. Journey to Lipulekh from Nabhidang had taken about 4 hours. Towards the end, we had to stop for breath afte every 5-10 minutes of walk. We were carrying "कपूर" to smeel every few minutes to keep respiratory system clear from clogs. After about 30 minutes at Lipulekh pass, crossed over to Tibet. it was downhill from Lipulekh pass for about 2-3 k.m. Horses arranged by Chinese authorities were waiting there for us to take up to bus. For every person there was one horse. Due to language problem, without asking, everyone was forced onto horse. Horses covered a distance of about 4-5 km where a bus was waiting for us to be taken to Taklakot. It was 10 a.m. by the time we all boarded the bus. Bus took about one our to reach to Taklakot hotel. We all were put in a big hall for Customs. By 11 a.m. Indian standard time we were waiting in the big hall for Customs to come and check our bags and clearance. In Tibet, China time is followed which is 2.5 hours ahead of Indian time. So by local time it was 1:30 p.m.
At Lipulekh pass Chinese military and ITBP hand over Kailash Mansarovar Yatris to each other. We met the returning batch when we had started to come down at Lipulekh pass at Chinese side. Lipulekh is a cross over point so both sides are strict about the timings. There are no permanent post at Border either from Tibetian/Chinese side or at Indian side so both sides forces go at the border to receive and handover purposes and comes back to nearest post which is 8-9 kms from border both sides.
There is abosulutely no vegetation on Tibetian side. Coming from Such lush green side, it felt very odd first few hours. It is is very dry terrain. One can see such contrast at opposide side of Himalayas. Till now I had only read in books that in Himalayas. due to clouds not able to cross over, Tibetian and Chinese side, very little or no rainfall takes place. I saw the effect of little or no rainfall for the first time. On the top of it it was cold at times so it was very dusty, and dry cold causing lot of dryness to the skin.
In Taklakot hotel, we were assembled in a room for Custom formalities. random checks of Bags took place. There are few prohibitive items like Milk powder, Restricted Buddhist literature (Especially Dalali Lama photos, books etc.). Came to know that Chinese workers like Indian music cassettes, Cd's etc. So to gift it to them, it is a good idea to carry few.
After finishing Custom formalities, we were allotted room in a pair i.e. double occupation. Lunch was served at about 2:30 p.m. local time on special request. It consisted of purely Vegetarian food having rice Pulav (made of Sticky rice) and soup.
We were given time till 4 p.m. to take bath in a common bathroom with hot water. Other times, bathroom is closed due to shortage of water. There was a common urinal and latrine little away from rooms in Chinese style (Chinese style is not having any commode but open drain.
City and land was quite barren wit hardly any vegetation. City shops were closed for some reason. We were not allowed outside hotel as our passports were with immigration authorities till quite late in the evening. Sunset took place around 9 p.m. local time.
Next day was also rest day as we had to do money exchange to convert our dollars into Yuan and make arrangements for further trip for Kailash parikram and Mansarovar Yatra.
We were met by our guides for Chinese side who were with us during the whole trip in Tibet. Guide was our interface for communicating with local folks, make arrangements in emergency, arrange porters/ponies, necessary arrangements in hotels etc.
Whole group was divided into two groups as A and B. Group A goes to first Kailash Parikram while group B goes first to mansarovar Yatra. It is said near Mansarovar if one sits in night 2 a.m. to 6 a.m. one can see Devlok's devas coming to take bath. Only few fortunate ones can see them as per their faith and awareness. Mansarovar is also called छीरसागर where one can hear Ganeshji and Karthikeyaji sounds could be heard. One of most holy places as per Hindu Mythology.