Yatra : Day 8 - Third day Trek - Destination Gunji

Day 8 - Budhhi to Gunji - 05 July 2008

Today we had to trek to Gunji on foot. It was about 18 Km. trek with first 3 km a steep ascent (ascent of 700 meters in 3 kms - which is considered very difficult ascend) and later 15 km quite plain ascend. Ascend is called "तिरछा" in local language. But in Hindi तिरछा means "not straight". My porter was consitently telling me that it is "तिरछा" for some distance and after that you will plain and I could not understand for a long time. Later I realized what he meant. Today also we started early in the morning after a cup of bournvita at 5:30 a.m.. After 3 km of ascend which took about 1.5 to 2 hours, we reached "छियालेख"(Chhiyalekh). छियालेख is also called valley of flowers as in spring, lot of flowers come up. There were very few flowers when we were there. Breakfast was arranged at this place. Trek to छियालेख was to be covered by all on foot for most of distance as due to steep ascend, one would not be stable on horse. For me it was very bad as due to bad stomach condition still, my dysentery was continuing. Till reaching Gunji I had to go for relieving myself about eight times. Foreseeing this I had kept a paper roll and paper soap strip with me. Out of it, five times it was in natural habitat and washing hands with either bottled drinking water or fresh water stream, while three times in proper structure (Twice at Budhhi guest house and once in a ITBP made structure with water facility). I can tell you that water was very cold but very fresh. I did not take breakfast and very little lunch. I could not have continued further if it was not planned two days rest at Gunji.
At छियालेख ITBP folks take down entry from everyone crossing that place towards Gunji for tracking purposes. So it is restricted area. One of us who reached at cross over point very early in the morning but his passport was with his colleagues and so he had to wait till his colleagues came up to that point. No Yatri was allowed to cross छियालेख until they had the passport and Visa.
We had lunch at a local restaurant between छियालेख and गूंजी. Surprisingly foundation of motorable road was laid between छियालेख and लिपुलेख (Lipulekh - boundry between India and Tibet/China). Local legend is that during 1962, India-China was this foundation was laid. When asked about why it is laid from Boundry towards interiors. This was if Chinese forces could easily come till छियालेख using the road. I got to hear following interesting story from Porters. १९६२ की लड़ाई के समय एक ऑफिसर को सड़क बनाने की जिम्मेदारी दी गयी थी. ऑफिसर चीनी लोगों के साथ मिला हुआ था. ऑफिसर ने पहले बोर्डर की तरफ की सड़क बनवानी शुरू की ताकि यदि चीनी लोग आक्रमण करें तो वो आसानी से छियालेख तक पहुँच कर कब्ज़ा कर लें. ऑफिसर एक दिन चीनी लोगों के द्वारा दिए हुए संयंत्र से उनसे बात कर रहा था तब उसकी पत्नी ने उसे देख लिया. पत्नी ने उसे पकरवा दिया. कहते हैं की वो अपनी जांघ में संयंत्र छुपा कर रखता था. इस तरह सड़क की नीवं तो पड़ गयी लेकिन सड़क को बनाने से बाद में रोक दिया गया.
(I heard that road construction work was in plan and in couple of years roads will be completed - By the way, Chinese side, road was built and motor able almost will the border - Which is a great security risk as far as Indian defense  is concerned).
I reached Gunji about 3:30 p.m. Gunji village was along a big valley besides Kali river. It was quite sizable compared to other villages on the way. The lands stretch being cultivated were quite long and wide as VAlley was quite wide. There is place there on the way to Gunji, whose समोसा (Samosa) is very famous.I could not have it while going but while coming back I had a taste of it and it was good.In Gunji village saw a statue of Mahatma Gandhi, it has gram panchayat, water propelled चक्की (Flour mill) apart from local grocery shops, hotels etc.There is a very basic medical facilities (A clinic where occasionally doctor come and attends patients. Doctor comes all the way from Dharchula and does not stay in Gunji) are there but KMVN has guest house with Igloos. KMVN Doctor travels with Group of Yatris. Apart from KMVN Doctor, ITBP provides medical cover and Security cover (ITBP personnel travel with us all throughout trek between Manga Nali till the border).Apart from that ITBP provides Satellite phone facilities where one can pay and make phone calls all over the world.
By the way, people staying in गूंजी (गूंजी) have title has गुन्जियाल (Gunjiyal). Similarly people staying at बुद्धि (Buddhi) have title as बुद्धियाल (Buddhiyal). So based on title, one can make out where that person or his/her ancestors belonged to.

Overall trek was very beautiful (apart from initial 3 km trek and my upset stomach). After reaching Gunji, I had a nice hot water bath, made few phone calls to my near and dear ones about my whereabouts. Had rest for the rest of the day after having medicines. In the evening went out to village for a walk.In the night after dinner, again went for a walk and met some of the porters, who after a hard day trek were entertaining themselves with local songs and dance. Spent and learned a popular song from them. Do not remember any words now. Perhaps One of the fellows who was with me (Karthick) could help.
At Gunji, had a long chat with head of village (मुखियाजी) in the evening. He told us about the current facilities, future plan of roads, how things have changed very little since independence. He did say that even though lot of people from village have reached good position in government, not much has been done to uplift condition of village. मुखियाजी told one interesting ancient stroy about the place of origin of village. He said that long back when Pandavas were spending time in hiding, they came to this place where renowned saint Ved Vyasji welcome them and fed them. The food served was very delicious. Pandavas had not eaten this kind of food before. So one of the Pandavas kept few grain in his pocket. After food was over, Ved Vyasji caught him and asked for the reason of keeping grain with him. Pandava who had kept the grain told sheepishly that food he had not tasted it ever before so he kept it for cherishing later as well. VedVyasji asked him to take out and check, when Pandav took it out, grains had turned golden and could not be eaten. VedVyasji had taught him a lesson of not stealing. Later Vedvyasji gave all of them that grain as gift and told them that they can grow more in future. They just have to throw the grain on ground. It is said in the lands surrounding Gunji, if you throw that grain, it will grow on its own without much care (as land is quite fertile and Kali river flows all year round). That grain is nothing but जौ (Barley). मुखियाजी also told how "Dharchula" got its name. As per legend told by him, Pandavas while going back from VedVyas's place, stopped over for the food and night. Pandavas wife, Draupadi, asked for a stove to cook food. Then one of the Pandavas, Bheema, joined together couple of nearby hills in the shape of a stove (i.e. Chulha or चूल्हा in Hindi which got changed to Chula). Since hills edges at top are sharp (having sharp edge or धार i.e. dhar), place was later on called Dharchula. Dharchula actually has a shape of stove and hills there do have sharp edges at top.

Before Dinner, we had small Bhajan and Kirtan program at nearby temple. Today was first group Kirtan which made the existence of Bhajan-Kirtan committee useful. There is this lady "Adity Ghosh Bannerjee" whose voice is so melodious. She likes singling as well. Courtesy that and many other supporters, Kirtan program went on for more than stipulated time. If not for dinner, it may have continued further.
Nice dinner was served in KMVN guest house.
Due to lack availability of fresh vegetables, fruits and non availability of meat/non vegetarian food, one may get deficiency in some essential minerals, vitamins. It is suggested to take multivitamin tablets during this trek as overall duration is long. 

Overall day was little painful in the beginning but quite active and beautiful. For the night, I could plan/choose the room and companions for the first time for night stay. Since we had to stay here for two nights it was best to avoid snoring noise and other noises (It is another story that I had underestimated the ability of walls to sound proof the noise from neighboring room.). Also we had gained considerable height and ability to sleep was coming down even after being tired. In night, I had to go out number of times in open air to get fresh air as felt uneasy and suffocated in the room. Late in night (for me late in night but for another gentleman - early in the morning), I was suddenly woken by strange noise as if someone was jumping on the bed in nearby room. (Beds were wooden bed and squeaked a lot). Later I found that a gentleman would get up every morning and do Yoga at 4 a.m. for about an hour. I wonder how one can have strength and patience for the same even after 20 Km. trek - He used horse for trek. (It was the last night he did Yoga in the trip early morning - Not because of me/others complaining but because doctor said that doing physical yoga at those heights may cause greater problem that help. He did continue doing Pranayam but stopped Physical Yoga next night onwards causing great relief to him fellow companions:).