Though there are many different routes to reach Mansarovar lake and Kailash parvat from India, yet primarily in Vogue there are only two routes at this time. One, which is used by Indian govt and Chinese govt to take Yatris through border between India and Tibet. Another route is through Kathmandu, Lhasa and then to Mansarovar and Kailash. This writing covers the first one.
First route (through border between India and Tibet) goes through various regions of Uttranchal (Kathgodam, Almora/Jageshwar, Pithoragarh, Dharchula, mangta Nali, Lakhanpur, Malpa, Buddhi, Chhiyalekh, Gunji, Kalapani, Nabhidang and Lipulekh pass). This route has been said to be used by Pandavas, Bhagwan Budh, Adi Guru Shankaracharaya and many other renowned personalities during old times. Some also refer this route as "Swarg ka rasta".
Second route (Through Kathmandu in Nepal and then to Lhasa) is modern day route which was devised by private tour operators. I did not hear very good comments about them through the folks who have experienced both the journeys. My understanding is that this is due to experience one goes through in both these routes. In Nepal route, one has to deal with money minded private tour operators, guides, drivers, attendants, porters etc. Operators may typically outsource different portions of journey to different set of people, each one of which tries to extract money from end Customer. I came to know incidences where a party who wanted to evacuate for an emergency through Helicopter, was promised evacuation by tour operator but no helicopter turned up for two days as tour operator wanted to extract more money. Ultimately travellers had to arrange another helicopter through their own sources (Obviously by bearing full cost again). There is very little infrastructure govt support for privately operated tours.
The route which is used by Indian and Chinese govt was decided and initiated by Indian Govt in 1980's. Chinese govt agreed for not more than 700 Yatris in a year. They are divided into 16 batches with each batch being not more than 60 persons. First batch usually leaves on May end/June beginning with last batch leaving in Aug last week. Yatra takes 26 days from Delhi to Delhi. Additional 3 days are required in Delhi for various formalities including Medical tests.
PROCESS
Process starts by applying to MEA (Ministry of External Affairs) in Indian government starting February first week to March mid, after they advertise and invite applications. These advertisements are made in Doordarshan, website probably in newspapers also in Feb first week. Following websites will have information updated every year -
http://www.mea.gov.in/
(Enter to Welcome page and look for a link on right hand side named as "Kailash Mansarovar Yatra...".)
http://www.kmyatra.org/
Once MEA receives the application, lottery takes place to select prospective Yatris. They are informed through a telegram during May about their selection. For non-selection, no information is sent. In 2008, trend has been to have 30-40% probability of selection. (I came to know that some people had sent multiple applications to make sure their selection. Few of them were selected for multiple batches. I think it can be done by juggling first name, middle name and last name. Though it creates some complications later on if names does not exactly match Passport name). If husband and wife both are applying, then either both are selected for the same batch or none is selected. But if other family members are applying together or friends are applying together, then there is no guarantee that they all be selected or even if they all are selected, they need not be in same batch. I came to know of instances when all friends were selected in different batches or family members were selected in different batches, they requested MEA to be brought in same batch and their request was honoured after some persuasion.
PREREQUISITES
Thought government does not ask for any perquisites, yet to be able to undertake this journey, one should be in general good health. This is due to many reason including unavailability or very basic availability of medical facilities during journey. Some part of journey is at quite high altitude (more than 5000 mtrs above sea level) which could be lethal to some persons. Some of the days, persons have to travel up to 25 kms in hilly train either on foot or horse/pony which tests a person's endurance capability. My personal opinion is that -
1. If situation permits, one should attempt to do before crossing 50. (When my parents asked whether they can do this journey, I categorily refused. They are 65+)
2. Do regular Pranayam (preferably for more than year before undertaking the journey).
3. Do regular exercise, jogging, walking etc. at least for 1 hour for more than 3 months before undertaking the journey. This is to increase your endurance. The best preparation for trekking is cycling, swimming, jogging, squash, tennis and long walks involving up and down hill. Following sites have some recommendations for the fitness routine -
http://intrepidchallenges.com/guide-to-trekking.php
4. Get a health check-up done at least 3-6 months before undertaking journey and take all preventative steps to be able to undertake journey.
5. Get your first-aid skills refreshed. For persons with high blood pressure symptoms, it is useful to learn to use a portable blood pressure meter or regularly use a blood pressure monitoring system.
6. In case of Knee-joint problems, do some exercises to strengthen muscles around knee. While descending on foot knee takes lot of pressure. Half the journey is about descending. At many places, one has to descend on foot even if one has taken horse/pony as it is quite dangerous on Horses/pony due to steep descend.
Yatra - Introduction
I will refer to journey as Yatra and person undertaking journey as Yatri.
My journey had started from the day thought of visiting Kailash Mansarovar came into my mind. I did all the research on Internet, apart from preparing myself for the journey including preparing my family, my finances, office colleagues etc. for the prospective journey. I applied in Mid February. I got the telegram from MEA in May first week, asking me to report to Delhi Lung and Heart Institute for Medical test on June 28 at 8 a.m. I was also asked to send a telegram confirming my willingness to take up the journey and a draft of Rs. 5000 to MEA as confirmation and non-refundable advance. I promptly did all this within a week's time in a great excitement. A few precautions here -
- While sending the draft to MEA, please either use speed-post or Registered letter service from post office. Please do not use private courier service. Some persons in our group had used private courier and their draft never made it to destination. This is due to the fact that private couriers are not allowed entry into MEA office. They all have to leave posts at reception which may or may not make it to destination. While mails sent via Post office service have better probability to make it to destination.
- It is better to call up MEA and confirm the receipt of telegram confirmation and draft receipt about a week earlier than last date to make sure everything is all right. In my experience it was pretty easy to call up the landline number provided in MEA telegram and talk to corresponding officer responsible for Yatra. MEA personnel were quite cooperative in my experience.
- Few cities have Local "samitis" (NGO's) who have all the process information, maps, height and precaution information, access to past Yatris etc. Please check for presence of one in your area. I know that Bilaspur had one and Delhi has many. (Request to other Yatris - Please update address/phone number on any such org in your area here).
- Even though govt supports and provides all medical facilities, for emergency helicopter evacuation, every Yatri has to take responsibility of corresponding cost himself/herself. Helicopter evacuation will run into lakhs (more than 5 lakhs or so). Government takes a bond from everyone to the same effect. Couple of Yatris in our batch had taken insurance specifically from this Yatra. (ICICI Lombard provides cover under foreign travel insurance costing about Rs 3000 per person. One must mention Kailash Mansarovar Yatra while taking the policy. New India Assurance provides foreign travel insurance but does not cover Kailash Mansarovar Yatra.). It is strongly advised to take such insurance before commencing the Yatra.
- One should make arrangements to take life insurance before commencing the Yatra. (For your family/dependents sake at least).
- Some state govt sponsors part/full journey. I know that Delhi govt, Chhattisgarh govt, MP govt provides a grant of Rs 25000/- per Yatris for Kailash yatris travelling from that state. I also came to know that Gujarat govt sponsors almost full expense for a Kailash Yatri from Gujarat. Please check with your state for any such grant/arrangement.
- To all Yatris, Delhi govt provides with a Rucksack, raincoat, track suit, a big torch as their help for making the journey. While making the preparation for journey, one could avoid taking these items.
- There is a booklet available on internet at MEA site in PDF from which has all the information regarding undertaking journey. That booklet in printed form is made available to Yatris by MEA in Delhi during their briefing just a day before yatra commences from Delhi (By that time it is too late information is already available to all the Yatris thru other sources. Perhaps it is given as reference book for your next Yatra). It is advisable to go through that by borrowing it from a previous Yatri or going thru it on internet. Many preparations needs to be done by recommendations/advise given in that book/booklet.
Yatra - Preparations during DAY 0, 1, 2, 3
I reported to Gujrati Samaj Sadan (Place where govt had made arrangements for our stay during first three days of medical checkup) one day earlier than scheduled day on recommendations of MEA officer. One airconditioned dormitary was provided having Bunk beds. I was also received and greeted by Mr. Uday Kaushik (He operates "Delhi Teerth Yatra Viaks Samiti" specifically for Kailash Yatris during this season for all 16 batches of Kailash Yatris).

Couple of comments here -
1. When coming to Delhi, one should have about 75000 rupees available with himself/herself in Cash. This is apart from Rs 5000 which one would have already sent to MEA earlier. Breakup is as follows -
Rs 15000 - To KMVN (Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam) either thru DD or Cash to
make transport, food and lodging arrangements in Indian side
Rs 400 - For Chinese Visa
Rs 2000 - For medical checkup at Delhi Heart and Lung institute.
Rs 15000 - One should carry in cash with oneself for porter, pony/horse in Indian side
Porter costs about Rs 3500 one way including Tips.
Pony/Horse costs about Rs 3800 one way including Tips
Rs 45000 - To convert to 1000 United States Dollars to take to Tibet (China)
701 USD is required by chinese govt.
300 USD one should carry to convert to Yuans to spend in Tibet for porter, horse/pony, emergencies and shopping.
Porter in China side costs around 120 Yuans per day - Needed for 3 days.
Pony/Horse in CHina side costs around 400 Yuans per day - Needed for 3 days.
One USD was equivalent to 6.7 Yuans when we converted in Tibet, China.
2. Even though one is free to make their own arrangements in Delhi for lodging and transport, staying with group has lot of merits in terms of information exchange, any last minute changes to schedule/program, knowing the group and people apart from feel of environment around you for next month. After all group travels like a family for almost a month together with no communication or very little communication to your own family.
3. There are excellent reference material available at Mr. Uday kaushik offices regarding Yatra, which can be borrowed for reading. Please do study especially if you are first time Yatri.
4. It is advisable to take rest on Day 0, as one goes through a comprehensive medical check up on Day 1 in Delhi Lung and Heart institute. Many of the persons are quite apprehensive about it. Since most of folks come from far to Delhi after some journey, it is advisable to give a rest to body to get best results during medical checkup.

Day 1 starts with waking up early in the morning (Before 5:30 a.m. - One better get used to that from day one as this trend of early morning waking up will continue for next one month). There are two toilets for men and two bathroom for men. Everyone must get ready by 7:15 a.m. and sit in the Bus waiting outside to take us to Delhi Heart and Lung Institute. (Fellow ladies Yatris - please update number of toilets and bathrooms available for ladies). There were about 35 gents and 15 ladies so there is little bit of queue in the morning for next three days. There are some people in dormitory who wake up really early (2 a.m. or 3 a.m.) and do some yoga at their bed. Some people do get up in the night to go to toilets etc. Though they try their best not to disturb others including cat walking while walking, light sleepers will have difficulty remain sleeping in such a dormitory kind of environment not only during the first day but during whole of Yatra. Some Yatris are bound to have loud snoring capability. Experience in Dormitory helped me identify these qualities of fellow passengers as well.
One has to travel empty stomach to Hospital for medical checkup. Breakfast is provided at hospital. Medical checkup involves blood tests, Urine tests, Chest X-Ray, Tread Mill Test. One can do certain preparations here to do good at medical tests -
1. Never hide any medical condition in forms.
2. For high blood pressure patients, do take your medicine previous night.
3. Practice blowing balloons, pranayam for few days before medical tests to have your lung at its best.
During Medical check up , they shave off hair from Men's chest for Tread Mill test (In my 5 TMT's till now, this was the first time they shaved my chest. It was first time in life for me so it did feel very strange for a day or two).
During medical check up, I had some more observations -
1. During tread mill test, it was taking time to reach 80% of allowed heart rate as my heart rate was not going up fast enough. I was told by another doctor that this happens if you are a regular jogger or swimmer or other kind of regular exercise. So regular exercise does increase your endurance which ultimately slows down heart rate even under the conditions when your body has to work hard. After some wait, attendant forcefully stopped the machine and made up readings by extrapolating, which is a questionable practice.
2. During medical check up, one test is about blowing hard through a small pipe at the end of which there is a meter which must exceed a certain number. If one fails to exceed the meter to a point, then one has to go thru something called PFT. PFT costs another 500 rupees. if one blows beyond a certain point, then PFT is not necessary. In our batch 22 persons out of about 50 had to go through PFT. I had a smoking history and I was asked to go for PFT without the blowing test. I (and some fellow) passengers had the feeling that PFT was a way of making money for the hospital as so many people can not have such a bad state of lungs. By the way, almost everyone cleared the PFT test. PFT is nothing but same exercise where they measure lung expansion and contraction on a computer.
3. There was only two Tread Mills in hospital and all 50 prospective Yatris had to go through tread Mill test. For each tests, it takes about 25-30 minutes for test. So it became a big bottleneck for everyone. I was lucky enough to have my tests done by 12 noon, but there were others who had to wait till the evening. At the end of all tests, chief medical officer gives a small audience to all Yatris. When I mentioned about this problem to him, his comment was " I know about the problem, but I am sorry that I can not do anything about it". When I asked what does he mean, he said that "for yatri's medical tests, I can not arrange some more machines specifically as you folks come only once a year and it does not justify the investments."
Personally speaking, it was quite frustrating to get his reply. I did write the problem and some possible solutions in the forms he gave me to fill in but I am pretty sure that our comments will find way to dustbins very next day. Come to think of it that hospital would be catering to medical tests needs of 16 batches of prospective Yatris every year, with each batch having about 50 prospective yatris on the average. They could be more creative about solving this problem. I have had experience at some other places where hospital will come to prospective patients for certain routine things like collection of blood, urine, general checkup if catering to such a large group of people is needed. Hospital could easily do part of the activity at Gujarati Samaj Sadan to ease out congestion at hospital as well as increase comfort to Yatris.
4. When we reach hospital, everyone's name is called and a personal information form is given to be filled in and submitted to a counter. One should strive to fill in the form as early as possible after receving it and submit to the designated counter with money. Your sequence of submission will determine your sequence of all the tests including Tread mill test. If you are in top 10 of list, then you can be assured of getting everything done in Hospital before lunch else you are stuck till the evening in Hospital. I was 4th in the list and got away from Hospital by 12 noon to catch up on my sleep which I was deprived in the previous night courtesy my being a light sleeper.
We also had to submit our passport and Visa fees to KMVN so that Chinese Visa could be arranged for everyone. One must deposit the Passport this very day to KMVN else Chinese Visa would not be arranged and Yatra can not happen. In hospital, we also got to meet our Liasion Officer Dr Atul Gupta, who collected some personal information about our interests, hobbies, background etc. A nice gentleman and Doctor from very first impression. Later he told that purpose of collecting personal information was to understand strengths of different persons based on which he could decide who could help in what kind of activities during Yatra. (During Yatra multiple committees are formed - Luggage committe, finance committee, Food committee, Purchase committee, Kirthan Committee - more on that below)
Came back to Gujrati Samaj Sadan by Auto rather than taking the Bus back (which came back only in the evening). Caught up on my sleep.
Day 1 evening Dr Atul Gupta (Liaison officer) came for the meeting conducted by Mr Uday Kaushik. Got introduced to all of us. Had some briefings regarding the Yatra. His feeling and understanding of the medical tests output etc. We ended with Bhajan, Kirthan followed by a good Dinner and erratic sleep (Erratic Sleep became a norm for next one month). We were also asked to form various committees consisting of volunteers from the group. Luggage committee was to be formed consisting of 7 to 8 volunteers whose responsibilities are to manage the luggage transport from the rooms to bus, rooms to ponies, ponies to rooms, bus to rooms during whole of journey. One of the main responsibility they carry is to take care of "Common Luggage" (Common food items, Medical kits etc.). They do not have to carry luggage on their shoulders but make sure that no luggage gets lost during this process, all luggage are numbered etc. Finance committee consisted of two persons. Responsibilities for this committee is to manage common finances. We had collected Rs. 2000/- in the beginning from everyone to take care of common expenditures (Common food items, common porter needs, common "Tips" needs etc.). They also helped group converting their Dollars into Yuan and Yuan to Dollars in China. Food Committee consisted of 6-7 persons to ensure that food is ready everyday during travel in Tibet while doing Parikarma. We had hired two Nepali cooks in China but getting them food prepared, ensuring we are carrying all the food items, preparing Menu etc. were responsibilities of Food committee. Purchase Committee was for procurement of any common items. Kirthan committee was to conduct Kirthan and Bhajans every evening during whole Yatra. By far these committees are necessary and pretty useful for well functioning of the whole Yatra.
Day 2 did not have as much rush as in Day 1 in the morning. We also get to do the breakfast before leaving. Day 2 is spent at ITBP Hospital, where first half determines medical eligibility for Yatra. It is recommended to carry on with blood pressure medicines if one is high blood pressure patient even this day. ITBP doctors review the reports they received previous evening.

Day 2 lunch in the form of Lungar was provided by a family operating Mahadev Amarnath Seva Samiti, Bhatinda. I was really impressed by the love and "Seva Bhav" they had while feeding us. Mahadev Amarnath Seva Smait also provided us with a small pouch to tie around waist in which important personal items, including passport, money etc. could be kept during Yatra. It was pretty useful and used by most of the yatris during Yatra. Pouch also contained a small booklet on Aarti, Bhajans, Shiv Mahimna sutra etc. apart from some more useful religious items. Another wonderful practice they had was that during that day they would not receive any donation but Donation could be given to them after coming back from Yatra. My sincere thanks to them for treating us with lunch and so much love.
Second Half of Day 2 was "Gyan session" from Kailash Mansarovar Seva Samiti. During travel in Tibet while doing he Parikarma, food for the whole group (Rice, Flour, Dals, frozen vegetables etc.) for the period of about ten days needs to be carried by the group. This food is donated by Kailash Mansarovar Seva Samiti. That is really good gesture from Samiti. Samiti typically has folks who have experienced the Yatra before and is headed by one such person Mr. SasiKant. One objective this Samiti is working towards is creating a separate property in Delhi where prospective Kailash Yatra can come together and prepare for journey (Whatever function Gujrati Samaj Sadan is playing today, essentially extension of that). The food material they donated was pretty useful. The information they presented during long 3-4 hour session was useful. Though presentation style was perhaps as boring as a typical Indian politician giving a "Bhashan". Mr SasiKant got married couple married again, made everyone sing bhajan of God Shiva at multiple occassions during his lecture. Mr. Sasikant did not let anyone escape the room after he started his Gyan session. He demanded undivided attention to the extent one finds in a strict classroom. I remember one gentleman was doing a talking to his wife for something during lecture and that gentleman got a scolding. Another gentleman wanted to go out for water and toilet and he almost had to seek permission to do that. Some people who had their own transport to and from ITBP hospital, could escape even before Kailash Mansarovar Seva Samiti started their program.
We were brought back from ITBP hospital by KMVN bus. We had meeting in the evening in Gujrati Samaj sadan with our liaison office present there. Day 2 ended with some more planning activities, some decisions about procuring some more necessary item next day and not to mention a good dinner.
Day 3 agenda was to have briefing done by MEA, complete all transactions including getting dollars procured, do any last minute shopping, attend a dinner hosted by current CM of Delhi, Mrs Sheila Dixit, receive some goodies from Delhi goverment, and prepare to leave early morning next day. Since list of persons eligible to travel have been finalized by now, all financial transactions happen this day. We started with MEA briefing which was done at Akbar Bhavan. KMVN Bus took us there. Briefing is from MEA personnel. Apart from briefing, we were given a booklet from MEA regarding Yatra. Booklet was given too late as by now everyone was well briefed about whole yatra, do's and don'ts etc. Another Gyan session took place from one of the ladies during briefing. I really appreciate the enthuasism and intention of all the folks providing detailed informations, precautions etc. One short briefing from ITBP as well as KMVN personnel also took place. Gave DD/cash to KMVN. After briefing, we were rushed to a bank counter in Ashoka Hotel for dollar procurement. Everyone was adviced to procure 1000 USD. FOr dollar procurement, there was a big queue and only one counter at the bank in Hotel. Since all the transport takes place using KMVN Bus, it results in big queues at such places. If one takes an Auto from Akbar Bhavan to Ashoka Hotel (it is very nearby) OR uses some other bank/facility to procure dollars, one can avoid the queue. Dollars procured are exchanged into Yuans in Taklakot (Tibet, CHina). The Chinese bank passes each and every dollar note through a verification machine. If machine, does not accept a note, they also do not accept it. In our case. couple of notes were rejected by chinese bank. So it becomes a problem there. It is better to take foreign exchange through a reliable source for this reason.
Day 3 afternoon was spent for any last minute shopping/purchases, packing etc. I also explored Metro rail this day to commute within Delhi.
Day 3 evening was reserved for a Dinner hosted by Mrs Sheila Dixit at her residence for Kailash Mansarovar yatris of our batch. She also presented us with a rucksack having some useful items for trekking (raincoat, torsh, trek suit). Dinner served at her residence was elaborate.
After dinner when we came back, everyone jumped to packing. In the evening, at least three different group of people came and distributed various goodies for us to carry. one group provided us with sticks for trekking (pretty useful and used by many Yatris). Another group arranged two bottles of Pepsi/Coke 2 litres plastic bottle cleaned and dried for us to carry back Mansarovar and Gauri Kund water. These bottles are by far strongest and very durable. When empty, they can be pressed and made smaller without damaging the bottle. It is advised that after filling the water, it should be sealed with M-seal and packed in bags. Some smart Yatris carried M-seal for that purpose with them. Another family/group provided all of us with sweets i.e. मिठाई, Cake rusk, dry fruits, dried आंवला etc. All of it was useful to carry and consume during our long treks later on. My advice is to carry them and consume it on the way whenever opportunity arrived (Some Yatri took them but did not consume them and carried it back). One gentleman came with very useful advices regarding blood pressure (how to reduce it without medicine). He also provided all of us with Cocoa-30 (A homeopathic medicine which reduces effects of High altitude when taken suring high altitude journey/trekking). He also gave a small pouch which could be hanged like a "mala" for us to carry passport etc. He distributed handouts, explained about how to use medicines and techniques to reduce the blood pressure. He also distributed a very useful 8 nos small LED lamps with extra batteries which could be kept in the tents (These lamps got stolen on the way. We found out when we were searching when we needed it). Unfortunately when gentleman was going back, his slippers were missing. While packing, by mistake his slippers also would have got packed. he requested me not to announce it in the group to get his slippers back. Going by all the briefings and Gyan session, his short and quick session (not more than 10 minutes) and items provided by him were most useful. Whatever he has adviced about sleeping, packing, eating, medicines and blood pressure were very practical and useful during whole of Yatra. One usefule advice he had given was that packing should be such that even if you dip the luggage in water and bring it out, your packed items should not get wet. Actually folks who had not done such elaborate and good packing, their items did get wet and soiled.
People were packing till late night and got up early morning as usual. We were told to get ready by 5 and vow, folks were ready by 4:30. I think group was very eager to get out of Delhi and Gujrati Samaj Sadan.
I thank all the Samiti's and families who provided us with such goodies and information. I wish we could do something in return to them for them to carry on the good work. I had planned to make some donations to them from the pool of common money we had collected. But towards the end, there were lot of differences created within the group. More than half Yatris were of the opinion that whoever did help us did it because it was their duty. These Yatris did not feel obliged by all the helpful gentleman and ladies. During these three days, I was told multiple times that Yatra changes the thought process of almost all the persons who dip into Mansarovar lake. All of us had dipped into Mansarovar lake. I understood it that it will make persons more compassionate, giving back to society, amiable and better. But it seems that some of Yatris got impacted otherwise and they took offence in small things, started worrying about every paisa/penny, created lot of differences in the group and spoiled the whole feeling in the group. This was by far the worst feeling I got towards last few days of yatra especially when we had started on such a good note.