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Yatra : Day 0,1,2,3 - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra Preparations

कैलाश मानसरोवर यात्रा i.e. Kailash Mansarovar Yatra is journey to Holy adobe of God Shiva on Kailash Parvat and Mansarovar, which is considered purest and holiest lake where God and Goddesses come to take bath as per Hindu mythology. This writing covers the experience as one of the Yatris of batch 6 of Kailash Mansarovar Yatra (Some refer as Batch 4 as first two batches were cancelled this year by Chinese govt).
Though there are many different routes to reach Mansarovar lake and Kailash parvat from India, yet primarily in Vogue there are only two routes at this time. One, which is used by Indian govt and Chinese govt to take Yatris through border between India and Tibet. Another route is through Kathmandu, Lhasa and then to Mansarovar and Kailash. This writing covers the first one.
First route (through border between India and Tibet) goes through various regions of Uttranchal (Kathgodam, Almora/Jageshwar, Pithoragarh, Dharchula, mangta Nali, Lakhanpur, Malpa, Buddhi, Chhiyalekh, Gunji, Kalapani, Nabhidang and Lipulekh pass). This route has been said to be used by Pandavas, Bhagwan Budh, Adi Guru Shankaracharaya and many other renowned personalities during old times. Some also refer this route as "Swarg ka rasta".
Second route (Through Kathmandu in Nepal and then to Lhasa) is modern day route which was devised by private tour operators. I did not hear very good comments about them through the folks who have experienced both the journeys. My understanding is that this is due to experience one goes through in both these routes. In Nepal route, one has to deal with money minded private tour operators, guides, drivers, attendants, porters etc. Operators may typically outsource different portions of journey to different set of people, each one of which tries to extract money from end Customer. I came to know incidences where a party who wanted to evacuate for an emergency through Helicopter, was promised evacuation by tour operator but no helicopter turned up for two days as tour operator wanted to extract more money. Ultimately travellers had to arrange another helicopter through their own sources (Obviously by bearing full cost again). There is very little infrastructure govt support for privately operated tours.
The route which is used by Indian and Chinese govt was decided and initiated by Indian Govt in 1980's. Chinese govt agreed for not more than 700 Yatris in a year. They are divided into 16 batches with each batch being not more than 60 persons. First batch usually leaves on May end/June beginning with last batch leaving in Aug last week. Yatra takes 26 days from Delhi to Delhi. Additional 3 days are required in Delhi for various formalities including Medical tests.
PROCESS
Process starts by applying to MEA (Ministry of External Affairs) in Indian government starting February first week to March mid, after they advertise and invite applications. These advertisements are made in Doordarshan, website probably in newspapers also in Feb first week. Following websites will have information updated every year -
http://www.mea.gov.in/
(Enter to Welcome page and look for a link on right hand side named as "Kailash Mansarovar Yatra...".)
http://www.kmyatra.org/
Once MEA receives the application, lottery takes place to select prospective Yatris. They are informed through a telegram during May about their selection. For non-selection, no information is sent. In 2008, trend has been to have 30-40% probability of selection. (I came to know that some people had sent multiple applications to make sure their selection. Few of them were selected for multiple batches. I think it can be done by juggling first name, middle name and last name. Though it creates some complications later on if names does not exactly match Passport name). If husband and wife both are applying, then either both are selected for the same batch or none is selected. But if other family members are applying together or friends are applying together, then there is no guarantee that they all be selected or even if they all are selected, they need not be in same batch. I came to know of instances when all friends were selected in different batches or family members were selected in different batches, they requested MEA to be brought in same batch and their request was honoured after some persuasion.
PREREQUISITES
Thought government does not ask for any perquisites, yet to be able to undertake this journey, one should be in general good health. This is due to many reason including unavailability or very basic availability of medical facilities during journey. Some part of journey is at quite high altitude (more than 5000 mtrs above sea level) which could be lethal to some persons. Some of the days, persons have to travel up to 25 kms in hilly train either on foot or horse/pony which tests a person's endurance capability. My personal opinion is that -
1. If situation permits, one should attempt to do before crossing 50. (When my parents asked whether they can do this journey, I categorily refused. They are 65+)
2. Do regular Pranayam (preferably for more than year before undertaking the journey).
3. Do regular exercise, jogging, walking etc. at least for 1 hour for more than 3 months before undertaking the journey. This is to increase your endurance. The best preparation for trekking is cycling, swimming, jogging, squash, tennis and long walks involving up and down hill. Following sites have some recommendations for the fitness routine -
http://intrepidchallenges.com/guide-to-trekking.php
4. Get a health check-up done at least 3-6 months before undertaking journey and take all preventative steps to be able to undertake journey.
5. Get your first-aid skills refreshed. For persons with high blood pressure symptoms, it is useful to learn to use a portable blood pressure meter or regularly use a blood pressure monitoring system.
6. In case of Knee-joint problems, do some exercises to strengthen muscles around knee. While descending on foot knee takes lot of pressure. Half the journey is about descending. At many places, one has to descend on foot even if one has taken horse/pony as it is quite dangerous on Horses/pony due to steep descend.
Yatra - Introduction
I will refer to journey as Yatra and person undertaking journey as Yatri.
My journey had started from the day thought of visiting Kailash Mansarovar came into my mind. I did all the research on Internet, apart from preparing myself for the journey including preparing my family, my finances, office colleagues etc. for the prospective journey. I applied in Mid February. I got the telegram from MEA in May first week, asking me to report to Delhi Lung and Heart Institute for Medical test on June 28 at 8 a.m. I was also asked to send a telegram confirming my willingness to take up the journey and a draft of Rs. 5000 to MEA as confirmation and non-refundable advance. I promptly did all this within a week's time in a great excitement. A few precautions here -
- While sending the draft to MEA, please either use speed-post or Registered letter service from post office. Please do not use private courier service. Some persons in our group had used private courier and their draft never made it to destination. This is due to the fact that private couriers are not allowed entry into MEA office. They all have to leave posts at reception which may or may not make it to destination. While mails sent via Post office service have better probability to make it to destination.
- It is better to call up MEA and confirm the receipt of telegram confirmation and draft receipt about a week earlier than last date to make sure everything is all right. In my experience it was pretty easy to call up the landline number provided in MEA telegram and talk to corresponding officer responsible for Yatra. MEA personnel were quite cooperative in my experience.
- Few cities have Local "samitis" (NGO's) who have all the process information, maps, height and precaution information, access to past Yatris etc. Please check for presence of one in your area. I know that Bilaspur had one and Delhi has many. (Request to other Yatris - Please update address/phone number on any such org in your area here).
- Even though govt supports and provides all medical facilities, for emergency helicopter evacuation, every Yatri has to take responsibility of corresponding cost himself/herself. Helicopter evacuation will run into lakhs (more than 5 lakhs or so). Government takes a bond from everyone to the same effect. Couple of Yatris in our batch had taken insurance specifically from this Yatra. (ICICI Lombard provides cover under foreign travel insurance costing about Rs 3000 per person. One must mention Kailash Mansarovar Yatra while taking the policy. New India Assurance provides foreign travel insurance but does not cover Kailash Mansarovar Yatra.). It is strongly advised to take such insurance before commencing the Yatra.
- One should make arrangements to take life insurance before commencing the Yatra. (For your family/dependents sake at least).
- Some state govt sponsors part/full journey. I know that Delhi govt, Chhattisgarh govt, MP govt provides a grant of Rs 25000/- per Yatris for Kailash yatris travelling from that state. I also came to know that Gujarat govt sponsors almost full expense for a Kailash Yatri from Gujarat. Please check with your state for any such grant/arrangement.
- To all Yatris, Delhi govt provides with a Rucksack, raincoat, track suit, a big torch as their help for making the journey. While making the preparation for journey, one could avoid taking these items.
- There is a booklet available on internet at MEA site in PDF from which has all the information regarding undertaking journey. That booklet in printed form is made available to Yatris by MEA in Delhi during their briefing just a day before yatra commences from Delhi (By that time it is too late information is already available to all the Yatris thru other sources. Perhaps it is given as reference book for your next Yatra). It is advisable to go through that by borrowing it from a previous Yatri or going thru it on internet. Many preparations needs to be done by recommendations/advise given in that book/booklet.
Yatra - Preparations during DAY 0, 1, 2, 3
I reported to Gujrati Samaj Sadan (Place where govt had made arrangements for our stay during first three days of medical checkup) one day earlier than scheduled day on recommendations of MEA officer. One airconditioned dormitary was provided having Bunk beds. I was also received and greeted by Mr. Uday Kaushik (He operates "Delhi Teerth Yatra Viaks Samiti" specifically for Kailash Yatris during this season for all 16 batches of Kailash Yatris).
Mr Uday Kaushik was immensly helpful. He also held meetings every evening with all Yatris to bring them together, prepare them for Yatra, gave information and lot of goodies to all Yatris including treating them with fantastice dinner every night, which I still cherish. My sincere thanks to Mr Uday Kaushik for all the help and arrangements he did for all of us. Even though Samiti has many members but Mr Uday is only "true" active member in my opinion who worked tirelessly to make our stay and Yatra so comfortable without any expectation from us (Well he had one expectation that we should write back to Delhi government appreciating Delhi government efforts so that Delhi Government can get better in future for Kailash yatris).



Couple of comments here -
1. When coming to Delhi, one should have about 75000 rupees available with himself/herself in Cash. This is apart from Rs 5000 which one would have already sent to MEA earlier. Breakup is as follows -
Rs 15000 - To KMVN (Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam) either thru DD or Cash to
make transport, food and lodging arrangements in Indian side
Rs 400 - For Chinese Visa
Rs 2000 - For medical checkup at Delhi Heart and Lung institute.
Rs 15000 - One should carry in cash with oneself for porter, pony/horse in Indian side
Porter costs about Rs 3500 one way including Tips.
Pony/Horse costs about Rs 3800 one way including Tips
Rs 45000 - To convert to 1000 United States Dollars to take to Tibet (China)
701 USD is required by chinese govt.
300 USD one should carry to convert to Yuans to spend in Tibet for porter, horse/pony, emergencies and shopping.
Porter in China side costs around 120 Yuans per day - Needed for 3 days.
Pony/Horse in CHina side costs around 400 Yuans per day - Needed for 3 days.
One USD was equivalent to 6.7 Yuans when we converted in Tibet, China.
2. Even though one is free to make their own arrangements in Delhi for lodging and transport, staying with group has lot of merits in terms of information exchange, any last minute changes to schedule/program, knowing the group and people apart from feel of environment around you for next month. After all group travels like a family for almost a month together with no communication or very little communication to your own family.
3. There are excellent reference material available at Mr. Uday kaushik offices regarding Yatra, which can be borrowed for reading. Please do study especially if you are first time Yatri.
4. It is advisable to take rest on Day 0, as one goes through a comprehensive medical check up on Day 1 in Delhi Lung and Heart institute. Many of the persons are quite apprehensive about it. Since most of folks come from far to Delhi after some journey, it is advisable to give a rest to body to get best results during medical checkup.
Day 0 was spent in taking rest, meeting some of the fellow yatris, speaking to their experience about yatra from earlier travelled yatris etc. In the evening of Day 0, small meeting was held by Mr. Uday Kaushik. Our liasion officer was not present on day 0 (though Liasion officer was present all other evenings for meeting all the Yatris in Samaj Sadan). Meeting ends with Joint Bhajan, Keerthan, Aarti and small animated Bhajan on computer followed by dinner hosted by Mr. Uday Kaushik.

Day 1 starts with waking up early in the morning (Before 5:30 a.m. - One better get used to that from day one as this trend of early morning waking up will continue for next one month). There are two toilets for men and two bathroom for men. Everyone must get ready by 7:15 a.m. and sit in the Bus waiting outside to take us to Delhi Heart and Lung Institute. (Fellow ladies Yatris - please update number of toilets and bathrooms available for ladies). There were about 35 gents and 15 ladies so there is little bit of queue in the morning for next three days. There are some people in dormitory who wake up really early (2 a.m. or 3 a.m.) and do some yoga at their bed. Some people do get up in the night to go to toilets etc. Though they try their best not to disturb others including cat walking while walking, light sleepers will have difficulty remain sleeping in such a dormitory kind of environment not only during the first day but during whole of Yatra. Some Yatris are bound to have loud snoring capability. Experience in Dormitory helped me identify these qualities of fellow passengers as well.
One has to travel empty stomach to Hospital for medical checkup. Breakfast is provided at hospital. Medical checkup involves blood tests, Urine tests, Chest X-Ray, Tread Mill Test. One can do certain preparations here to do good at medical tests -
1. Never hide any medical condition in forms.
2. For high blood pressure patients, do take your medicine previous night.
3. Practice blowing balloons, pranayam for few days before medical tests to have your lung at its best.
During Medical check up , they shave off hair from Men's chest for Tread Mill test (In my 5 TMT's till now, this was the first time they shaved my chest. It was first time in life for me so it did feel very strange for a day or two).

During medical check up, I had some more observations -
1. During tread mill test, it was taking time to reach 80% of allowed heart rate as my heart rate was not going up fast enough. I was told by another doctor that this happens if you are a regular jogger or swimmer or other kind of regular exercise. So regular exercise does increase your endurance which ultimately slows down heart rate even under the conditions when your body has to work hard. After some wait, attendant forcefully stopped the machine and made up readings by extrapolating, which is a questionable practice.
2. During medical check up, one test is about blowing hard through a small pipe at the end of which there is a meter which must exceed a certain number. If one fails to exceed the meter to a point, then one has to go thru something called PFT. PFT costs another 500 rupees. if one blows beyond a certain point, then PFT is not necessary. In our batch 22 persons out of about 50 had to go through PFT. I had a smoking history and I was asked to go for PFT without the blowing test. I (and some fellow) passengers had the feeling that PFT was a way of making money for the hospital as so many people can not have such a bad state of lungs. By the way, almost everyone cleared the PFT test. PFT is nothing but same exercise where they measure lung expansion and contraction on a computer.
3. There was only two Tread Mills in hospital and all 50 prospective Yatris had to go through tread Mill test. For each tests, it takes about 25-30 minutes for test. So it became a big bottleneck for everyone. I was lucky enough to have my tests done by 12 noon, but there were others who had to wait till the evening. At the end of all tests, chief medical officer gives a small audience to all Yatris. When I mentioned about this problem to him, his comment was " I know about the problem, but I am sorry that I can not do anything about it". When I asked what does he mean, he said that "for yatri's medical tests, I can not arrange some more machines specifically as you folks come only once a year and it does not justify the investments."
Personally speaking, it was quite frustrating to get his reply. I did write the problem and some possible solutions in the forms he gave me to fill in but I am pretty sure that our comments will find way to dustbins very next day. Come to think of it that hospital would be catering to medical tests needs of 16 batches of prospective Yatris every year, with each batch having about 50 prospective yatris on the average. They could be more creative about solving this problem. I have had experience at some other places where hospital will come to prospective patients for certain routine things like collection of blood, urine, general checkup if catering to such a large group of people is needed. Hospital could easily do part of the activity at Gujarati Samaj Sadan to ease out congestion at hospital as well as increase comfort to Yatris.
4. When we reach hospital, everyone's name is called and a personal information form is given to be filled in and submitted to a counter. One should strive to fill in the form as early as possible after receving it and submit to the designated counter with money. Your sequence of submission will determine your sequence of all the tests including Tread mill test. If you are in top 10 of list, then you can be assured of getting everything done in Hospital before lunch else you are stuck till the evening in Hospital. I was 4th in the list and got away from Hospital by 12 noon to catch up on my sleep which I was deprived in the previous night courtesy my being a light sleeper.

We also had to submit our passport and Visa fees to KMVN so that Chinese Visa could be arranged for everyone. One must deposit the Passport this very day to KMVN else Chinese Visa would not be arranged and Yatra can not happen. In hospital, we also got to meet our Liasion Officer Dr Atul Gupta, who collected some personal information about our interests, hobbies, background etc. A nice gentleman and Doctor from very first impression. Later he told that purpose of collecting personal information was to understand strengths of different persons based on which he could decide who could help in what kind of activities during Yatra. (During Yatra multiple committees are formed - Luggage committe, finance committee, Food committee, Purchase committee, Kirthan Committee - more on that below)
Came back to Gujrati Samaj Sadan by Auto rather than taking the Bus back (which came back only in the evening). Caught up on my sleep.
Day 1 evening Dr Atul Gupta (Liaison officer) came for the meeting conducted by Mr Uday Kaushik. Got introduced to all of us. Had some briefings regarding the Yatra. His feeling and understanding of the medical tests output etc. We ended with Bhajan, Kirthan followed by a good Dinner and erratic sleep (Erratic Sleep became a norm for next one month). We were also asked to form various committees consisting of volunteers from the group. Luggage committee was to be formed consisting of 7 to 8 volunteers whose responsibilities are to manage the luggage transport from the rooms to bus, rooms to ponies, ponies to rooms, bus to rooms during whole of journey. One of the main responsibility they carry is to take care of "Common Luggage" (Common food items, Medical kits etc.). They do not have to carry luggage on their shoulders but make sure that no luggage gets lost during this process, all luggage are numbered etc. Finance committee consisted of two persons. Responsibilities for this committee is to manage common finances. We had collected Rs. 2000/- in the beginning from everyone to take care of common expenditures (Common food items, common porter needs, common "Tips" needs etc.). They also helped group converting their Dollars into Yuan and Yuan to Dollars in China. Food Committee consisted of 6-7 persons to ensure that food is ready everyday during travel in Tibet while doing Parikarma. We had hired two Nepali cooks in China but getting them food prepared, ensuring we are carrying all the food items, preparing Menu etc. were responsibilities of Food committee. Purchase Committee was for procurement of any common items. Kirthan committee was to conduct Kirthan and Bhajans every evening during whole Yatra. By far these committees are necessary and pretty useful for well functioning of the whole Yatra.
Day 2 did not have as much rush as in Day 1 in the morning. We also get to do the breakfast before leaving. Day 2 is spent at ITBP Hospital, where first half determines medical eligibility for Yatra. It is recommended to carry on with blood pressure medicines if one is high blood pressure patient even this day. ITBP doctors review the reports they received previous evening. ITBP doctors do their own assessment for fitness to underrate Yatra. They do not get influenced by general pursuing. They also do a medical check up which is usually limited to pulse measurement and blood pressure measurement for normal cases. We have had three persons who were declared unfit. In one case, for a couple, husband was declared unfit while better half was declared unfit. In another case, a gentlemen who had been successfully traveled to Everest base camp was declared unfit. This was first day of disappointment for some of us and sad to see couple of sad faces around us. We were returned our medical reports back. We are supposed to carry whole bunch with us in the Yatra for emergencies and also for another medical checkup at high altitude (Gunji). Medical checkup at Gunji happens after couple of days of trekking. Gunji is at altitude of more than 3000 meters and so effects of high altitude does get reflected on individuals at that height.
Day 2 lunch in the form of Lungar was provided by a family operating Mahadev Amarnath Seva Samiti, Bhatinda. I was really impressed by the love and "Seva Bhav" they had while feeding us. Mahadev Amarnath Seva Smait also provided us with a small pouch to tie around waist in which important personal items, including passport, money etc. could be kept during Yatra. It was pretty useful and used by most of the yatris during Yatra. Pouch also contained a small booklet on Aarti, Bhajans, Shiv Mahimna sutra etc. apart from some more useful religious items. Another wonderful practice they had was that during that day they would not receive any donation but Donation could be given to them after coming back from Yatra. My sincere thanks to them for treating us with lunch and so much love.
Second Half of Day 2 was "Gyan session" from Kailash Mansarovar Seva Samiti. During travel in Tibet while doing he Parikarma, food for the whole group (Rice, Flour, Dals, frozen vegetables etc.) for the period of about ten days needs to be carried by the group. This food is donated by Kailash Mansarovar Seva Samiti. That is really good gesture from Samiti. Samiti typically has folks who have experienced the Yatra before and is headed by one such person Mr. SasiKant. One objective this Samiti is working towards is creating a separate property in Delhi where prospective Kailash Yatra can come together and prepare for journey (Whatever function Gujrati Samaj Sadan is playing today, essentially extension of that). The food material they donated was pretty useful. The information they presented during long 3-4 hour session was useful. Though presentation style was perhaps as boring as a typical Indian politician giving a "Bhashan". Mr SasiKant got married couple married again, made everyone sing bhajan of God Shiva at multiple occassions during his lecture. Mr. Sasikant did not let anyone escape the room after he started his Gyan session. He demanded undivided attention to the extent one finds in a strict classroom. I remember one gentleman was doing a talking to his wife for something during lecture and that gentleman got a scolding. Another gentleman wanted to go out for water and toilet and he almost had to seek permission to do that. Some people who had their own transport to and from ITBP hospital, could escape even before Kailash Mansarovar Seva Samiti started their program.
We were brought back from ITBP hospital by KMVN bus. We had meeting in the evening in Gujrati Samaj sadan with our liaison office present there. Day 2 ended with some more planning activities, some decisions about procuring some more necessary item next day and not to mention a good dinner.
Day 3 agenda was to have briefing done by MEA, complete all transactions including getting dollars procured, do any last minute shopping, attend a dinner hosted by current CM of Delhi, Mrs Sheila Dixit, receive some goodies from Delhi goverment, and prepare to leave early morning next day. Since list of persons eligible to travel have been finalized by now, all financial transactions happen this day. We started with MEA briefing which was done at Akbar Bhavan. KMVN Bus took us there. Briefing is from MEA personnel. Apart from briefing, we were given a booklet from MEA regarding Yatra. Booklet was given too late as by now everyone was well briefed about whole yatra, do's and don'ts etc. Another Gyan session took place from one of the ladies during briefing. I really appreciate the enthuasism and intention of all the folks providing detailed informations, precautions etc. One short briefing from ITBP as well as KMVN personnel also took place. Gave DD/cash to KMVN. After briefing, we were rushed to a bank counter in Ashoka Hotel for dollar procurement. Everyone was adviced to procure 1000 USD. FOr dollar procurement, there was a big queue and only one counter at the bank in Hotel. Since all the transport takes place using KMVN Bus, it results in big queues at such places. If one takes an Auto from Akbar Bhavan to Ashoka Hotel (it is very nearby) OR uses some other bank/facility to procure dollars, one can avoid the queue. Dollars procured are exchanged into Yuans in Taklakot (Tibet, CHina). The Chinese bank passes each and every dollar note through a verification machine. If machine, does not accept a note, they also do not accept it. In our case. couple of notes were rejected by chinese bank. So it becomes a problem there. It is better to take foreign exchange through a reliable source for this reason.
Day 3 afternoon was spent for any last minute shopping/purchases, packing etc. I also explored Metro rail this day to commute within Delhi.
Day 3 evening was reserved for a Dinner hosted by Mrs Sheila Dixit at her residence for Kailash Mansarovar yatris of our batch. She also presented us with a rucksack having some useful items for trekking (raincoat, torsh, trek suit). Dinner served at her residence was elaborate.
After dinner when we came back, everyone jumped to packing. In the evening, at least three different group of people came and distributed various goodies for us to carry. one group provided us with sticks for trekking (pretty useful and used by many Yatris). Another group arranged two bottles of Pepsi/Coke 2 litres plastic bottle cleaned and dried for us to carry back Mansarovar and Gauri Kund water. These bottles are by far strongest and very durable. When empty, they can be pressed and made smaller without damaging the bottle. It is advised that after filling the water, it should be sealed with M-seal and packed in bags. Some smart Yatris carried M-seal for that purpose with them. Another family/group provided all of us with sweets i.e. मिठाई, Cake rusk, dry fruits, dried आंवला etc. All of it was useful to carry and consume during our long treks later on. My advice is to carry them and consume it on the way whenever opportunity arrived (Some Yatri took them but did not consume them and carried it back). One gentleman came with very useful advices regarding blood pressure (how to reduce it without medicine). He also provided all of us with Cocoa-30 (A homeopathic medicine which reduces effects of High altitude when taken suring high altitude journey/trekking). He also gave a small pouch which could be hanged like a "mala" for us to carry passport etc. He distributed handouts, explained about how to use medicines and techniques to reduce the blood pressure. He also distributed a very useful 8 nos small LED lamps with extra batteries which could be kept in the tents (These lamps got stolen on the way. We found out when we were searching when we needed it). Unfortunately when gentleman was going back, his slippers were missing. While packing, by mistake his slippers also would have got packed. he requested me not to announce it in the group to get his slippers back. Going by all the briefings and Gyan session, his short and quick session (not more than 10 minutes) and items provided by him were most useful. Whatever he has adviced about sleeping, packing, eating, medicines and blood pressure were very practical and useful during whole of Yatra. One usefule advice he had given was that packing should be such that even if you dip the luggage in water and bring it out, your packed items should not get wet. Actually folks who had not done such elaborate and good packing, their items did get wet and soiled.
People were packing till late night and got up early morning as usual. We were told to get ready by 5 and vow, folks were ready by 4:30. I think group was very eager to get out of Delhi and Gujrati Samaj Sadan.
I thank all the Samiti's and families who provided us with such goodies and information. I wish we could do something in return to them for them to carry on the good work. I had planned to make some donations to them from the pool of common money we had collected. But towards the end, there were lot of differences created within the group. More than half Yatris were of the opinion that whoever did help us did it because it was their duty. These Yatris did not feel obliged by all the helpful gentleman and ladies. During these three days, I was told multiple times that Yatra changes the thought process of almost all the persons who dip into Mansarovar lake. All of us had dipped into Mansarovar lake. I understood it that it will make persons more compassionate, giving back to society, amiable and better. But it seems that some of Yatris got impacted otherwise and they took offence in small things, started worrying about every paisa/penny, created lot of differences in the group and spoiled the whole feeling in the group. This was by far the worst feeling I got towards last few days of yatra especially when we had started on such a good note.

Yatra : Day 4, 5 - Two days Bus Travel to Dharchula from Delhi



Day 4 - Delhi to Almora by Bus - 01 July 2008
After spending first three days for preparation, it was time to move to next phase which was to travel by bus till Dharchula , a small Town at Border of India and Nepal besides River Kali which is accessible by bus only. We underwent initial Pooja and Aarti at Gujrati Samaj Sadan. Though Aarti etc. got performed early (atrating 4 a.m.) and all Yatris got ready in time, while loading on bus one gentleman's luggage got loaded but was not accounted for while loading (all luggage were numbered while packing and were being accounted for while loading by a group of volunteers responsible for luggage loading and unloading - Volunteers who formed Luggage Committee). That being the case gentleman and group of people had to search through luggage from all the buses, unload some luggage to look into every nook and corners of all luggage compartments. At the end it was located in one of buses luggage compartment. This whole process of loading, unloading for tracking a luggage and loading again delayed the start by about 1.5 hours. We ultimately left at 6:40 a.m (instead of leaving by 5 a.m.).
Bus journey on Day one was divided into two parts. In first part one set of Buses took Yatris to Kathgodam reaching Kathgodam at Lunch time. Lunch was served at Kathgodam as KMVN guest house. These Buses are typically big and comfortable. Buses move in plains during this time. In between we had a stopover at Gaziabad where Breakfast was served by a local felicitation committee followed grand breakfast. Ghaziabad DM was also present. Since we had started late, it was late by the time we reached Ghaziabad. After Ghaziabad stop over and lunch, we moved on to Kathgodam.
At Kathgodam another felicitation ceremony was held by a local group and KMVN
personnel.A group photo was taken for all the Yatris and gifts were presented. Photo is probably also published in local newspaper. It was followed by nice lunch by KMVN. Media persons were also there to cover the event, interview the Yatris etc. Journey till this place was uneventful. Fun starts from here as Hills start from here. To cater to that, we travel in smaller buses. SO at this place while we were having lunch and felicitation etc., Luggage committee was again busy in overseeing the shifting of luggage to new set of buses. During whole Kailash Yatra, (from day one) one gets to use the luggage in nights only. During daytime and journey time, luggage is handed over to various transporting personnel (porters or Bus folks). So one does not gets to see the luggage in the day time. It is a best to carry a small lightweight bag/backpack with oneself for carrying personal items like medicines, eatables, moneybag etc.
After lunch, we went and settled down on small size buses to carry our journey to next stop at Almora for night halt. We reached Almora quite late in night and could not really see and feel the city. Dinner arrangements and stay arrangements were at KMVN guest house at Almora. From Kathgodam to Almora, though it is hills, road still has reasonable amount of traffic. Some folks were having nausea especially there was not enough gap between Lunch and Bus travel in hilly region.
Almora being small town and town is asleep early with virtually no night life. Being late in night, it was time for rest especially when, next day, Buses were to leave before Sunrise.

Day 5 - Almora to Dharchula Bus - 02 July 2008

Left Almora very early morning. Could not see
the Surroundings around Almora as it was still dawn when left the town. Whatever little we could see was very beautiful and could not be captured in Camera. First stop was at Danyan for breakfast.
After Danyan, we continued on to Pithoragarh for lunch Stop. It is a beautiful journey with winding roads, lush green hills all round and occasional beautiful water falls.
Before Noon we reached at Pithoragarh where we had lunch at KMVN guest house. It is a beautiful guest house situated at very nice place with beautiful views..
From Pithoragarh, we left after lunch for Merthi. At Merthi we were given grand reception by ITBP (Indo Tibetian Border Police) team. They had arranged as welcome party consisting of local dance folks in colorful dresses. We were treated with tea, Aloo Pakoras made from a dried potato powder (which can be conserved for a long time at normal temperature - it was a present from the manufactureres as well) in nice environment. We were also presented Packed Potato Powder for us to carry with us for Yatra. We got to meet an Indian freedom fighter from the area (Only one I have met this century). Commander at Camp gave a nice presentation on the route we will take, do's and dont's of Yatra at high altitude, help ITBP will provide, how to safegaurd us etc.(ITBP personnel provide all the help, escort Yatris till China border, handover the Yatris to China military, Receive back from China Border, provide medical support and other logistics support). Overall this was the best reception and presentation before the Yatra. Conversation was crisp, to the point and pretty useful. Learned that while trekking if you inhale by mouth and exhale by nose, you would not get tired easily. Also synchronize walk with breath i.e. forward one step while inhaling and put forth another step while exhaling. When get tired, rest with legs at little height than rest of body. While resting, rest with your face towards the ongoing ourney (instead of facing backwards). To increase breath retention capacity, we played a game where one has to repeat "Bam Bam Bam" or "Guru Guru" as many times as one can say in single breath as loud as possible continuously. We learned that in this trek, one of the days trek is difficult with 700 mts of ascend in 3 Km (in terms of trek grading, most of the trek is smooth except for this stretch and another small stretch where it becomes little risky due to overhanging rocks, slippery stones and wetness present).
A nice group photo also taken at Merthi, which was embedded with names and presented to us by ITBP when we returned back from Yatra. This photo also reminded us how we looked before we started the Yatra and change in looks
after Yatra. Due to high altitude trekking (Sun impacts the skin more at high altitudes), food availability, lack of sleep (at high altitude sleep is bit irregular) etc., looks of everyone changes.Merthi was the last place on Indian border side where mobile phone networks were available in 2008. So everyone was busy informing there near and dear ones about being out of reach for next few days. Though all throughout, there were paid telephonic facilities available (even in Tibet/China at base of Kailash Parvat).

After all the ceremonies at Merthi, we proceeded to Dharchula as the last stop by Bus for the day. Dharchula is also the last place where one can do any leftover shopping. We were given rooms at Dharchula in KMVN guest house, had nice bath (not knowing when we we will have nice shower bath next during Yatra). We had briefing from Liason Officer. We had to decide whether we want to hire a porter and Pony for travel till China border for next few days. A porter is not supposed to carry more than 5 Kgs of weight. A pony will not carry anything more than a person (not even person's backpack). So if one wants to travel on Pony, person should hire a porter as well. Porter and Pony owners are local people. Due to lack of any industries, offices etc., for many of them this is the only earning opportunity they have in the whole year. Due to high unemployment rate, there is large queue of people who want to render their services for Pony and Porter. Typically in 16 batches of KMY in a year, a probable porter/pony owner will have opportunity not more than once (or at most twice if lucky) if person in every group take up facilities of porter or Pony. Even though it was suggested for the sake of employment of poor people, that everyone must hire either a pony or porter even if they do not want to use it, not more than 50% folks ended up hiring a porter and/or Pony. One more reason for not taking Pony by many people were religious. Kailash Mansarovar Yatra is supposed to be very important "Teerth Yatra" (Religious joiurney, Some compare it with Haz). In such journey, there is a presumption that it must be covered on foot even if it is painful and uncomfortable. So many people did not Pony. I took up a porter and made arrangements to share a Pony with another fellow Yatri in case I have to use it. (Both of us did not use the Pony at all at the end of it). Rates for Pony and Porter are fixed by government. They are also given a license to be able to render their services based on their fitness, ability to render such service, behavior, economic condition etc.
Liason officer fixed up schedule for next day, briefed everyone about their duties (including various committees - luggage committee, finance committee, Kirthan committee etc.). This point on Liason Officer is the head of Yatris and Authority as well as responsible for safety of the group. He is like captain. ITBP, MEA, KMVN go by what Liason officer says. He also carries a satellite phone with him and provides a regular status update to Ministry of External Affairs. In case of emergency, he arranges for the safe pull-out of Yatris (In our batch one of the Ladies had suffered a fracture in Tibet/China during journey as she fell from Pony and hit a rock, she was air lifted from a ITBP base later to be brought to Delhi).
We were also asked to leave any extra stuff at Sharchula guest house which we could pick up on the way back. I left a bag with a clean pair of pants, shirt etc. to be worn on return journey. Took only as little as needed in a rucksack. Every person bag is weighed at this point and it should not cross a particular limit while going or coming (One should take care as while coming back, they
would be carrying the water from Mansarovar which itself would weight anything between 2 Kgs to 10 Kgs depending on amount of water one brings on. Some people carry stones, soil and water from Kailash parvat also which also causes weight increase. Few also do some shopping in Tibet/China thus increasing the weight).

It is a good idea to check shoes and if necessary buy it at Dharchula. Another very useful item is M-seal which one should carry to seal the water container for carrying on the journey back. Dharchula is the place to buy if missed earlier. I also bought large (12 ft by 6 ft) strong trampoline/water proof canvas and big bundle of strong nylon rope from a nearby hardware store at Dharchula. I used that to pack my bag for journey with three four layers of canvas and tied from all sides with rope. That way it was ready for rough usage, highly water proof (to the extent that if you dip in water, inside belongings would not get wet). Bought M-Seal, extra torch batteries and few essentials at Dharchula.
Came to know that in 2008 year, route from Almora to Dharchula was changed to increase tourism and also to avoid possible landslides though route was longer and took more time than usual. In year 2008, out of 16 batches for Kailash Mansarovar Yatra, batches no 1,2, 13,14,15,16 were canceled as China govt did not allow due to preparations for Beijing Olympics and Pro-Tibetian protests. One should take care not to carry any Pro-Tibetian material (like Dalai Lama photo or books) to avoid trouble at China side. After entering China, Chinese Custom officials ask and check luggage for the same.
Overall it was busy and hectic day. After dinner, had nice sleep. It was humid and quite cloudy when went to sleep. Later it rained whole night.

Yatra : Day 6 - First day Trek - Destination Gala


Day 6 - Dharchula to Gala - 03 July 2008
Journey by foot starts today. Started around 7:30 a.m. from Dharchula guest house. Previous night it rained throughout the night. Initially couple of hours we had to travel by Bus to a place called Mangati Nala. From Mangati Nala we had to go on foot to place called Gala. Night halt was supposed to be in Gala. There were no motorable roads beyond Mangati Nala in 2008. When we started from Dharchula on Bus, there was no news of landslides till Mangati Nala. Bus journey was very picturesque with winding road beside Kali river.
After about an hour, our bus front tyre got punctured (there were many fallen rocks on the road due to rain last night). Fortunately there was a spare available. Everyone got down and enjoyed the light rain outside the bus.
As we went further, there was a big landslide with water gushing down on the road (a waterfall was formed). Fortunately bus could pass through that.  Meanwhile few folks had a nap, some took pictures and few of us spent time chatting and knowing other fellow passengers.
After we had not traveled for even 15 minutes, we came across another landslide. This time mud was still falling once in a while and there was unstable soil formation on top.It was decided not to take risk with Bus passing through it. KMVN personnel sent wireless message to other side. There were taxis on the other side which came to pick us up. We crossed the landslide walking with personnel items in hand while few kept watch for falling mud.We were supposed to get our luggage next day but with bus on other side, we do not know when will we get luggage. My shoes got wet as it is not water resistant at all. Spare shoes are in packed bag. I realized that it is a good idea to keep a lightweight shoe/slippers in handbag for such situation.As soon as we are about to sit in Taxi, GREF (Garrison Road Engineers Force) came and cleared the mud and landslide. Taxi plan canceled and Bus came to other side. Whoa ! what a relief and what a start on journey. We have not started on foot yet. Little further, we pass through a place with overhanging rock and road under it. Water is gushing down all over due to heavy rain previous night. Bus passes through it. It is like Bus passing undera water fall. Now I understood and realized the importance of water proof packing of luggage. Though Luggage was nicely covered with canvas etc., one can never trust absence of a hole in coverings.

We were about one km away from Mangati Nala and found that a big landslide which was still falling. It was not allowed to pass that stretch even by walk as rocks were falling. Liasion officer was contacted for further direction. There existed a walkway which will take 3 Km detour by foot. It was decided to take that. We disembarked from Bas, took our personal belongings and started the journey. Journey by foot had started. Out porters and Ponies were there to start the journey. My porter name was Devidutt and he was older than me. I did not feel like giving all load to him so we share load but he would not let me carry anything. At the end, he gave me a stick to carry and took all my luggage.
We took detour through "Tangati village" to reach Mangati Nala. At Merthi, we were given few plants each to carry and plant somewhere in hills. Aim was targeted towards increase forestation in the hills through this. I was carrying few of them and gave half of it to children in Tangati village. Children were cute and lots of them. I asked them where they go to study and half of it did not understand what I was asking. Then a little older one explained that not all of them go to school and the ones who go have to walk about 4 Km in hills to reach a government run primary school. They were very poor but well behaved. Some of them were working in small small fields (if you could call it field). It is very very difficult and quite a hard work to cultivate land there. I found them cultivating Maize and Wheat in most of the fields apart from vegetables (for personal uses) at places.
We reached Mangati Nala around 4 p.m. Rested for a while at Mangati Nala. Due to rain, few patches at Mangati were very Slushy. Horse stables were there at Mangati causing lot of smell. Some of had hot tea and fresh Pakora at one of the tea shops there. It had become sunny and humid by that time. From Mangati Nala to Gala it was continuous trek. My porter did not want to rest in between. It was uneventful (fortunately). Passed through couple of villages (Each village consisted of not more than half a dozen houses/huts). Legend was that local villages do not want roads to be made as that will kill the business of horse owner/Pony owners which is the main livelihood for many of them.
Reached Gala at about 7 p.m.
In gala we were provided with huts and igloos to stay. Just before reaching Gala, there was a small tent by ITBP personnel where they treated Yatris with Hot tea and Pakoras again. This became a trend throughout the journey on Indian side.
At Gala we were provided with nice dinner and asked that next morning we had to start early (about 4 a.m.) as it is the longest trek (> 21 Km) along Kali river to reach Buddhi. It was first night with so many people together in a tent after a tiring day. Walls among two tents were thin enough to let noise pass through. We got a good idea about who snores at what loudness level and who all had a good/bad tolerance towards neighbor snoring. In perspective thinking,  it is not a bad idea to carry ear plugs amongst other things to handle such scenario. By far the experience first day led to many decisions in subsequent night with respect to who all people could sleep together (e.g. snoring personnel could sleep together in same room while non-snoring had to have separate hut/room).

Yatra : Day 7 - Second day Trek - Destination Budhhi

Day 7 - Gala to Budhhi- 04 July 2008
Started very early from Gala (about 5 a.m.) after having a cup of hot Bournvita. Today's destination was Budhhi about 21 Km trek along the river Kali.It was a longest trek not so difficult but risky due to slippery rocks in on the way. There is a strategic reason behind this trek being long. Between Gala and Budhhi there is a place called Malpa. There used to be a camp and night halt at Malpa till 1998. In 1998, one of the batches who were sleeping at Malpa, were buried alive in a massive lanslide. Due to heavy landslide, the all Yatris and many other of nearby villages were buried alive. (Search for "Malpa lanslide"). Famous entertainment personality Ms. Protima Bedi was also part of that.There is local legend among local folks that Yatris who were part of group were carrying beer and drinking on the way to Pilgrimage including young men and women and so Lord Shiva punished them. Nonetheless, because of risk of landslides in that region of valley, no night halts for temporary shelters/camps are used now between Gala and Budhhi. In fact Gala and Budhi camps are also constructed in a way where they are either on rocks or protected by solid rocks so that they are not impacted by any mishaps like "Malpa Landslide".
In this trek segment, there were overhanging rocks with water flowing on top and we had to walk under it with water dripping inside (it is like walking through and under waterfall). There were streams to cross with no bridges on to it meaning we had to walk through it in ankle to knee deep water. Some places, one could touch the river. Many beautiful scenes and waterfalls. Had Breakfast and lunch at KMVN arranged hotels which served hot food as and when we arrived there. For Local hotels this is a main business for the year as other times apart from local people very few tourist would pass through and utilize their services.
Morning trek consisted of ascending down 4444 (four thousand four hundred forty four steps) to reach Lakhanpur for breakfast. These were not steps really but stone path built by PWD (Public Works Department - it is responsible for building and maintaining rod there also). Since it was a steep descend on rocks and stones, it felt like steps which someone said was equivalent to 4444 steps. I did not have patience to count. Breakfast consisted of Poori and curry made of Aloo and Chana.
Forenoon trek consisted of trek from Lakhanpur to Malpa. We had lunch at one local Dhaba at Malpa. Saw the accident site also there. Some of us stopped there and prayed for the departed souls in 1998 accident with 2 minutes silence at that place. Lunch was plain Roti, rice, Dal, and Aloo curry.
All provisions needed by Local folks are carried by horses, ponies or Goat. Goat can carry between 15 to 20 kgs. Pony can carry between 20 to 50 kgs. Horse can carry up to 100 kgs of weight.
Lot of trek path were steep on this day. At steep places, one can not use horse or Pony due to risk of toppling down. There were narrow pathways and deep gorge of Kali at places. If one sees the depth of it from sitting at height on Horse or Pony, it looks/feels more dangerous.
While walking on the narrow pathways, it is always recommended to walk on the inner edge towards hill (away for river gorge). While going on a pony/horse, if it is ascending then sit forward and if it is descending then betn backwards. That way both horse and rider are balanced and out of toppling danger. While going on a pony/horse, it is recommended to get down once in a while and walk for some distance. That keeps the blood moving in the legs otherwise blood especially near thighs gets kind of frozen.
From Malpa to Budhhi, it was long trek. It was real endurance test. We passed through couple of villages on he way. Each village consists of 5-6 families to 30-35 families. Last couple of Kms were so unbearable that I had to rest every ten steps. I was so tired that I got fever and dysentery in the evening and next day. Doctor and Liasion Officer, suggested everyone to have a crocin or disprin before sleeping. I took medicines for fever and retired to bed early with no dinner. Most of the folks had their shoes wet making it harder for them to walk. (I remembered warning from one of the folks in Delhi that whatever happens, do not let the shoes get wet even if it meant walking barefoot in the water with shoes on your head and/or hand). One of the ladies with us (oldest in age in the group. She was about 72 years old) had to be almost carried by two able bodied young persons in later part of trek. She could not be made to travel on horse/pony due to the nature of way and also she could not sit/hold herself due to tiredness. Later on, she stayed on at Budhhi without going further and returned with a returning batch of Yatris.
There was a water propelled flour mill at Budhhi and later at Gunji also. Budhhi is a big village and very old village. It has post office also. Postal department carries post on foot/horses due to lack of roads till Budhhi. Budhhi is the last place where people stay in villages throughout the year. Beyond Budhhi typically people do not stay in winter and half of the year due to heavy snow in the area. They come down to Bhudhhi or villages at lower heights till Dharchula in winters. PWD also has a guest house and office in Budhhi. On asking why roads are not being built, there were many answers. Local people say that PWD is corrupt and they eat away government grant. Another set of folks said that forest department is not letting the roads built as they are saying that it will destroy the ecology in the area including deers present in natural habitat. It was told that a court case is going on between PWD and environmentalist regarding building of the road in the area. In any case, sufferers are Local population and ITBP. They have to manage on foot. There are very basic or none medical facilities available. We met a women who was asking whether our doctor is carrying medicines with respect to abortion. She said that her sister had an abortion at advanced stage and there is no doctor or related facility available to give her relief. She is not in a position to walk. Carrying her on a stretcher till the nearest hospital (which would be Dharchula) is not affordable to them. For the local folks, life has not changed for years. They said that it has not really changed since 1960.
Local crops cultivated are Potato, turmeric, "Sarson", Spinach, Rice and maize.Terrains are uneven so most of the farming is manual. My porter told me that there was a scheme from govt that poor families not having any land would be give about 10 nalis of land (Local way of measuring land - I do not know the conversion). There are some incentives and schemes by government run forest departement, agriculture department and animals husbandry department.
In Budhhi we got our luggage (We had not got it in Gala due to various landslide problems and logistics issues. Without landslides also perhaps luggage is not made available in Gala). Luggage travels on a separate set of Ponies operated by contractors under KMVN supervision. Luggage is counted and numbered. System is much more rudimentary that airlines luggage system. So there is always a chance of luggage not reaching destination at right time or getting lost on the way. This is also due to sometimes misfortune of Pony carrying luggage falling in the river or getting lost on the way (Pony wanders through forest for food and gets lost). We heard a story where a pony with luggage fell into river and crossed over to other side of river. The luggage it was carrying got lost in river. To retrieve Pony, its owner had to somehow cross the river and get the Pony back. By the way other side of river is Nepal and it is not possible to cross the river due to flow of water in that. There is one or two rope-way which is used to cross for such situation. I got my luggage intact with no water seeped in thought it was wet and dirty from outside. It seemed like it has been fallen into mud and water has been poured on to it (it would have traveled under the water fall as we did). There were few whose luggage was not packed water tight manner and it became wet partially of fully. I remember a gentleman whose all clothes, spare shoes, eatables etc. got wet. he had to throw the eatables somehow manage with his existing clothes till next destination (Gunji) where he could get everything washed and dried and brought in shape. There were others who complained of similar issue but fortunately no luggage went missing in onward or backward journey (Kudos to Luggage Committee).


We were to leave next day early morning so everyone retired without any Bhajan Kirtan that evening. Lights off please...